Beaujolais Nouveau 2009
Posted: 11/27/2009 Filed under: Wine | Tags: Beaujolais Nouveau, Burgundy, Gamay, Red Wine 1 Comment »It’s that time of the year again. The streets in France are filled with signs proclaiming, “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrive!” But I must admit that, despite all of the excitement, I’ve never before taken the Beaujolais Nouveau very seriously. After all, I can list numerous other wines that I would rather be drinking. This year, however, since I’m in France, I decided to partake in the fan-fair. In doing so, I’ve discovered more than just a wine…I’ve discovered an important ritual.
I’ve always wondered why watery beer, that I usually try to avoid, always tastes good at baseball games. Or, how cold pizza tastes good in the morning, but in the evening it must be heated up. For me, eating and drinking isn’t always about the food or the drink, but more about the ritual. And when it comes to the Beaujolais Nouveau, it’s more about the tradition than anything else. Read the rest of this entry »
An Introduction to African Wines
Posted: 11/16/2009 Filed under: Wine | Tags: Africa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Egypt, Gianaclis, Kanonkop Kadette, Omar Khaggam, Pinotage, South Africa, Wine 1 Comment »This past week, I decided to venture into a world of wine that I know very little about: African wine. While I was familiar with South African wines, I had never tasted wine from any other African country. In fact, it had never even crossed my mind to do so until a friend brought over a bottle Omar Khaggam (also known as Omar el Khayam) 2006 Gianaclis from Egypt. I will admit to being rather skeptical, since, when I think of Egypt, I think of the pyramids and Cleopatra before I think of wine. I was very excited to discover something new, however, and luckily I did since the bottle turned out to be better than expected (although I don’t think I would go out and buy a bottle today). To complete our short tour of Africa, we also opened a bottle of Kanonkop Kadette 2006 from South Africa that I had picked up at Comptoir des Andes & du Nouveau Monde during my last trip to Paris. Here is what we found…
Omar Khaggam of Egypt
Winemaking is nothing new to Egypt. In fact, the wine of Egypt dates back to pre-historic times (2600 BCE) and is documented in many ancient artifacts. And, while the grape vine does not originate from Egypt, it was during the time of the pharaohs that the winemaking process and ingredients where first documented. Today, Egypt produces around half a million gallons of wine a year, which is a noteworthy amount considering the large Muslim (non-alcohol drinking) population, and not to mention its bad reputation. The three major producers are Château des Reves, Obelisk, and Gianaclis. The latter is owned by Heineken and produces the label Omar Khaggam, which is named after the Persian mathematician and philosopher who said, “Drink wine. This is life eternal.”
The Omar Khaggam we drank was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and, at first, had the characteristics that you would expect from a cab. The color was a medium ruby red, and the aromas were that of red berries and prunes. In the mouth, the wine is round, velvety, and very fruity, but lacking in tannins and structure. The finish was weak with a slight metal taint.
Kanonkop Kadette of South Africa
While I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to find another bottle of Omar Khaggam, I would certainly make the effort for the Kanonkop Kadette 2006 of South Africa. This bottle was truly a great find.
Kanonkop is a family estate located on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in the Stellenbosch Region of the Cape, an area otherwise known as the “red wine bowl” of South Africa. The wine is a blend made from Pinotage (39%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), Merlot (20%), and Cabernet Franc (9%). This gives a luscious full-bodied, dry red wine that is well balanced, with nice acidity, delicate tannins, and a fruity velvety linger. There was a nice finish with a touch of spice. This is a sophisticated and eloquent wine that is also a great buy at just 10 euros a bottle.
Benoît Daridan of Cour Cheverny
Posted: 10/18/2009 Filed under: Wine, Wine Pairings | Tags: Benoît Daridan, Cour Cheverny, Domaine de la Marigonnerie, Loire Valley, White Wine 1 Comment »Only a few grapes are left hanging on the vines at Domaine de la Marigonnerie, where winemaker Benoît Daridan is busy completing the fall harvest. This family owned domaine is truly in the heart of the Loire Valley, in Cour Cheverny, where serene forests, picturesque lakes, and magnificent castles surround it. The vineyard is tucked away between the Chateau of Chambord, where Leonardo De Vinci designed the famous spiral staircase, and the Chateau of Cheverny that inspired the residence of Tintin. What makes this region so special, however, is the Romorantin grape variety that was first brought here from Burgundy by François I (1494-1547). It is a little known grape that cannot be found anywhere else in France, or in the world, and produces a delightful white wine.
When I first arrived at the vineyard, the strong smell of must was in the air. The must or moût, as the French call it, is the grape juice that has not yet started fermentation. Some of the grapes were in the middle of being pressed, leaving a big pile of grape skins and stems on the flour that will later be used to fertilize the soil. Most of the grapes have already been harvested and the fermentation process is well underway; however, the remaining grapes will produce a late-harvest dessert wine or vin moelleux. Read the rest of this entry »
Au Coup de Grâce
Posted: 09/28/2009 Filed under: Wine, Wine Bars | Tags: Burgundy, François Mikulski, Paris, Santenots, Volnay, Wine Bars Leave a comment »
“Le coup de grâce” is a French medieval expression that means the final knockout or the kiss of death, but figuratively it can also refer to a final victory gained after many failed attempts. I prefer the second definition, especially since a nice glass of wine is always in order after one finally succeeds in a difficult endeavor. Inspired by this victorious expression, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest wine bars in Paris that opened its doors for the first time two weeks ago. The owners are two young wine connoisseurs who are passionate about the grape, the wine, and, of course, the final victorious sip.
Located in the 5th arrondissement, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest editions to the long list of Parisian wine bars, but this one is different than most. The interior is very simple with just a few tables and chairs, and the only decorations are the wine bottles displayed on the walls. It is still very new (even the paint looks fresh), but I appreciate the simplicity. The atmosphere is relaxing and the no-frills style confirms your reason to be there – to drink good wine.
There is a nice array of wines, mostly French, that can be as inexpensive as 5 euros a bottle, or, if you’re looking for a truly victorious drink, they have a nice selection of red Burgundies – both new and old. They will open any of their bottles for a small corking fee, but of course you can also opt for one of their wines by the glass (4 euros). And you can’t forget about the cheese and charcuterie.
The Wine
The bottle we chose was a Bourgogne 1999 Volnay Santenots du milieu (premier cru controlée) by François Mikulski. It is from Meursault, which is located in the Côte d’Or. According to Theo, one of the owners, it is a difficult year to find, and I can certainly see (or taste) why. The bottle was everything you would want in a good Burgundy. Although, when first opened, the wine was a little serré or closed. The owner decanted the bottle for us, which opened up the great bouquet and brought out the complexity of the wine. The body was fuller than I expected with bright acidity, earthy characteristics, and layers of cinnamon, smoke, tart raspberry, and casis.
Location: Au Coup de Grâce, rue Berthollet (5th arrondissement)
