Burnt Nuts and Partially Fermented Grape Juice…A Tradition Lives On.
Posted: 10/23/2009 Filed under: Wine Pairings | Tags: Bernache, Chestnuts, Chitenay, Harvest, Loire Valley, Mont-près-Chambord, Vendanges 1 Comment »
Before I knew it, my fingers were completely black, but that didn’t stop me from peeling back the burnt shells from the chestnuts to reveal their tender and steamy inside. I had never eating chestnuts in such a way – straight from a roaring fire, tended by a retired winemaker and his sommelier grandson. There is certainly an art to roasting chestnuts, but unfortunately the old tradition of roasting chestnuts or châtaignes on an open fire is slowly being lost in France to more conventional methods. But here, in the small village of Chitenay in the Loire Valley, the tradition is being passed onto current generations who seem to understand the symbolic importance of such traditions. The tradition of roasting chestnuts is a celebration of completing the fall grape harvest or vendanges.
The most important part of this tradition (perhaps even more important than the chestnuts themselves) is to drink bernache. Bernache is partially fermented must, or rather it’s a drink that is in-between grape juice and wine. The grape juice has only been allowed to ferment for a few days, meaning that it is very sweet, with a slight yeast taste, and mild effervescence. Served chilled, it is a great compliment to the extremely hot chestnuts. Both the chestnuts and the bernache come directly from the region. The grapes are picked and pressed by the winemakers of Mont-près-Chambord, and the chestnuts themselves are gathered by hand from the surrounding forests. Even the fire is made from vine branches that are gathered from the vineyards. Read the rest of this entry »
Benoît Daridan of Cour Cheverny
Posted: 10/18/2009 Filed under: Wine, Wine Pairings | Tags: Benoît Daridan, Cour Cheverny, Domaine de la Marigonnerie, Loire Valley, White Wine 1 Comment »Only a few grapes are left hanging on the vines at Domaine de la Marigonnerie, where winemaker Benoît Daridan is busy completing the fall harvest. This family owned domaine is truly in the heart of the Loire Valley, in Cour Cheverny, where serene forests, picturesque lakes, and magnificent castles surround it. The vineyard is tucked away between the Chateau of Chambord, where Leonardo De Vinci designed the famous spiral staircase, and the Chateau of Cheverny that inspired the residence of Tintin. What makes this region so special, however, is the Romorantin grape variety that was first brought here from Burgundy by François I (1494-1547). It is a little known grape that cannot be found anywhere else in France, or in the world, and produces a delightful white wine.
When I first arrived at the vineyard, the strong smell of must was in the air. The must or moût, as the French call it, is the grape juice that has not yet started fermentation. Some of the grapes were in the middle of being pressed, leaving a big pile of grape skins and stems on the flour that will later be used to fertilize the soil. Most of the grapes have already been harvested and the fermentation process is well underway; however, the remaining grapes will produce a late-harvest dessert wine or vin moelleux. Read the rest of this entry »
La Grande Epicerie de Paris
Posted: 10/07/2009 Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: La Grande Epicerie de Paris, Le Bon Marché, Paris, Salt 1 Comment »I’m just settling into my little “cottage” in the Loire Valley. Well, it’s actually more like an apartment that has been built into the ancient fortification or remparts of the city, but, from the courtyard, it looks like a little farmhouse, which until yesterday didn’t have any internet. So I’m sorry I’ve been away for so long, but before I start writing about my new life in Blois (pronounced Blwah), let me go back and tell you about some of my discoveries in Paris…
La Grande Epicerie de Paris (38 rue de Sèvres) is exactly what you would expect from the name. It’s a large grocery store or épicerie, but, unlike most regular shops, you can find an unlimited amount of gourmet items that would inspire any chef – professional or not. It is located right next to Le Bon Marché, where one goes to see the latest trends in fashions, but, if you’re anything like me, you’ll skip the clothing and head straight towards the rather trendy food.
While in Paris I always stop at La Grande Epicerie , because I’m guaranteed to discover a new specialty. There is a wide selection of imported and exotic food that you simply can’t find anywhere else. They even have some American specialties, such as barbecue sauce and caesar dressing (gourmet of course), which is a welcome sight for the numerous expatriates who are longing for a taste of home.
During my last trip to La Grande Epicerie, I discovered a new twist on table salt – rocks of salt, about two inches wide, that were packaged up and sold with a small grater. These diamants de sel are made from rose salt, which are fossilized crystals of sea salt that formed more than 260 million years ago. They are extracted from the Khewra mines of the Himalayas in the Pakistani region of Kashmir. The salt was actually discovered around 350 BCE by Alexander the Great, who had them brought back to Europe where they were served to dignitaries and emperors.
Of course you don’t have to be an emperor anymore to have these rocks of salt on your table. They have a nice flavor that works for any dish, but they also are a fun table decoration.
For more information visit Terre Exotique.
