Au Coup de Grâce
Posted: 09/28/2009 Filed under: Wine, Wine Bars | Tags: Burgundy, François Mikulski, Paris, Santenots, Volnay, Wine Bars Leave a comment »
“Le coup de grâce” is a French medieval expression that means the final knockout or the kiss of death, but figuratively it can also refer to a final victory gained after many failed attempts. I prefer the second definition, especially since a nice glass of wine is always in order after one finally succeeds in a difficult endeavor. Inspired by this victorious expression, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest wine bars in Paris that opened its doors for the first time two weeks ago. The owners are two young wine connoisseurs who are passionate about the grape, the wine, and, of course, the final victorious sip.
Located in the 5th arrondissement, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest editions to the long list of Parisian wine bars, but this one is different than most. The interior is very simple with just a few tables and chairs, and the only decorations are the wine bottles displayed on the walls. It is still very new (even the paint looks fresh), but I appreciate the simplicity. The atmosphere is relaxing and the no-frills style confirms your reason to be there – to drink good wine.
There is a nice array of wines, mostly French, that can be as inexpensive as 5 euros a bottle, or, if you’re looking for a truly victorious drink, they have a nice selection of red Burgundies – both new and old. They will open any of their bottles for a small corking fee, but of course you can also opt for one of their wines by the glass (4 euros). And you can’t forget about the cheese and charcuterie.
The Wine
The bottle we chose was a Bourgogne 1999 Volnay Santenots du milieu (premier cru controlée) by François Mikulski. It is from Meursault, which is located in the Côte d’Or. According to Theo, one of the owners, it is a difficult year to find, and I can certainly see (or taste) why. The bottle was everything you would want in a good Burgundy. Although, when first opened, the wine was a little serré or closed. The owner decanted the bottle for us, which opened up the great bouquet and brought out the complexity of the wine. The body was fuller than I expected with bright acidity, earthy characteristics, and layers of cinnamon, smoke, tart raspberry, and casis.
Location: Au Coup de Grâce, rue Berthollet (5th arrondissement)
Fancy Take-out: Sushi and Viognier
Posted: 09/23/2009 Filed under: Wine, Wine Pairings | Tags: Château l'Hopitalet, France, Gérard Bertrand, Languedoc, sushi, Viognier Leave a comment »
While Paris might be celebrated for the wonderful bistrots and fine French dining, there isn’t a shortage of good traiteurs asiatiques that specialize in Asian delicacies just waiting to be taken home. In fact, you’re bound to see one on just about every corner in just about every neighborhood. And, when you’re tired after a long day of work, or still fighting jet lag (as was my case), they’re the perfect answer for a night in…but don’t forget to pick up the bottle of wine before you head home for the night.
While I was waiting for my sushi to be prepared by one of the local sushi shops in the 15th arrondissement, I snuck around the corner to get a bottle of wine from the small grocery store. Right away a bottle caught my eye: Gérard Bertrand Château l’Hospitalet Viognier 2007. Well, to be more precise, it was actually the little tag on the bottle that got my attention since it said that this wine maker was voted in 2008 by Wine Spectator magazine as the best French winery for the quality versus price ratio. My curiosity got the best of me, and besides, at 4 euros a bottle you don’t have much to lose.
The Wine
A former professional rugby player, Gérard Bertrand has become a leader in Languedoc wines (Southern France) and has established a reputation for quality in a region that is known for overproduction and its contribution to the French “wine lake.” I was surprised by the complexity of this Viognier – one of the main varieties of the Languedoc. It had nice floral notes of honeysuckle with layers of pear and citrus. On the palate it had good acidity, was well structured and balanced. It was what you would expect a Viognier to be. While I wouldn’t call this a great wine, it was bright and pleasant, and went great with sushi.
The Pairing: Sushi and Viognier
Everyone knows that sake is traditionally paired with sushi, but Viognier can also be a great compliment. In the Languedoc, Viognier is usually paired with Mediterranean fish dishes; however, the florality of Viognier is similar to that of certain sakes, making it a great choice for sushi.
The Last Sip of Summer…
Posted: 09/21/2009 Filed under: Wine | Tags: Hall Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine, Yountville Leave a comment »Two suitcases, three wine keys, one journal, a camera, the latest edition of Wine Spectator, a map of Paris, a lingering taste of Sauvignon Blanc…
My plane arrived in Paris before the sun had risen, before the boulanger had even pulled his bread from the oven. Despite the jet lag and my exhaustion, I was eager to start my adventure in France, but I was still holding onto the memory of my last night in Santa Fe and the glass of wine that brought my summer to a close. Read the rest of this entry »
A Deceptive Perfume
Posted: 09/17/2009 Filed under: Wine | Tags: Burgundy, New World, Old World, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2 Comments »
An Encounter Between Old World and New World Pinot Noir
A sultry wine professor at the Université de Bourgogne, I will call her Madame B, once told me that a wine is like a woman – it would be wrong to kiss her without first taking in her aroma. And, only after becoming completely intoxicated with the scent of her hair, her neck, her perfume, should a man even think of going further…
With those words, Madame B convinced me that the sensuality of wine, its aroma, was to be respected with the same delicate finesse as a woman. She proceeded to pour two glasses of Burgundy Pinot Noir, or Bourgogne Rouge, one of which she handed to me. I slowly breathed in the aroma of the wine, but I must admit that at the time I was a young American student who was just as naïve about wine as anything else. I become lost in the myriad of scents, not able to explain what exactly it was that I was experiencing. With time, however, I learned to recognize and love the scent of an Old World Pinot.
For me, the most important characteristic of a Burgundy Pinot Noir is its earthiness. I am reminded of hiking through a lush forest in autumn, just after a light rain. You can smell the mushrooms, the damp earth and trodden leaves, and the smoke coming from a distant cottage. At the same time there is a subtle layer of tart red fruit and cherries, with a touch of spice. An Old World Pinot Noir has such a wonderful complexity, bottled in a wine that is light-bodied and well balanced.
I was recently reminded of this sensation when I opened a bottle of Adelsheim Pinot Noir 2007 from the Willamette Valley. The bouquet of this wine reminded me of the Old World Pinots that I cherish. It was earthy and musty, with a touch of smoke. There was also cinnamon and black pepper with only a slight layer of red forest berries to add to the complexity. I was surprised, however, when I tasted the wine. I expected it to taste as an Old World Pinot Noir would by continuing the earthy characteristics onto the palate. Instead, the wine on the palate was fruit forward with an mélange of juicy red fruits such as strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. There was such a contrast between the wine’s bouquet and the way it tasted that it woke up my senses and I wanted to taste it again to see if I wasn’t mistaken.
The Adelsheim Pinot Noir was a perfect encounter of Old World and New World characteristics. It also reminded me of Madame B’s lesson: the experience of drinking a wine begins with the bouquet. Sometimes, however, the aromas can be deceptive, but this makes the experience all the more sensational.
