November 16, 2009

An Introduction to African Wines

This past week, I decided to venture into a world of wine that I know very little about: African wine.  While I was familiar with South African wines, I had never tasted wine from any other African country.  In fact, it had never even crossed my mind to do so until a friend brought over a bottle Omar Khaggam (also known as Omar el Khayam) 2006 Gianaclis from Egypt.  I will admit to being rather skeptical, since, when I think of Egypt, I think of the pyramids and Cleopatra before I think of wine.  I was very excited to discover something new, however, and luckily I did since the bottle turned out to be better than expected (although I don’t think I would go out and buy a bottle today).  To complete our short tour of Africa, we also opened a bottle of Kanonkop Kadette 2006 from South Africa that I had picked up at Comptoir des Andes & du Nouveau Monde during my last trip to Paris.  Here is what we found…

Omar Khaggam of Egypt

Winemaking is nothing new to Egypt.  In fact, the wine of Egypt dates back to pre-historic times (2600 BCE) and is documented in many ancient artifacts.  And, while the grape vine does not originate from Egypt, it was during the time of the pharaohs that the winemaking process and ingredients where first documented.  Today, Egypt produces around half a million gallons of wine a year, which is a noteworthy amount considering the large Muslim (non-alcohol drinking) population, and not to mention its bad reputation.  The three major producers are Château des Reves, Obelisk, and Gianaclis.  The latter is owned by Heineken and produces the label Omar Khaggam, which is named after the Persian mathematician and philosopher who said, “Drink wine.  This is life eternal.”

The Omar Khaggam we drank was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and, at first, had the characteristics that you would expect from a cab.  The color was a medium ruby red, and the aromas were that of red berries and prunes.  In the mouth, the wine is round, velvety, and very fruity, but lacking in tannins and structure.  The finish was weak with a slight metal taint.

Kanonkop Kadette of South Africa

While I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to find another bottle of Omar Khaggam, I would certainly make the effort for the Kanonkop Kadette 2006 of South Africa.  This bottle was truly a great find.

Kanonkop is a family estate located on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in the Stellenbosch Region of the Cape, an area otherwise known as the “red wine bowl” of South Africa.  The wine is a blend made from Pinotage (39%), Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), Merlot (20%), and Cabernet Franc (9%).  This gives a luscious full-bodied, dry red wine that is well balanced, with nice acidity, delicate tannins, and a fruity velvety linger.  There was a nice finish with a touch of spice.  This is a sophisticated and eloquent wine that is also a great buy at just 10 euros a bottle.

November 8, 2009

Daring to Sell New World Wines in France

Comptoir des Andes & du Nouveau MondeComptoir des Andes & du Nouveau Monde

France is certainly not lacking in wine shops, or caves à vins as they are called.  In fact, you’ll easily find one in the smallest of villages and on almost every street in the larger cities.  But if you go into most French wine shops and ask for a South African Pinotage or an Argentinean Malbec, more likely than not you’ll be out of luck.  It’s no wonder since France is the second largest producer of wine (just behind Italy) and you certainly don’t have to go far to find an astonishing diversity of grape varieties and wines.  The French are also notoriously proud of their wines.  There is, however, a growing awareness of New World wines, and an acknowledgment that some of it is actually really good.  And, while it is still difficult to find New World wines, there is a cave à vins in Paris that specializes in just that.  In fact, you won’t find a single bottle of French wine in the shop.

Comptoir des Andes & du Nouveau Monde is the only place in Paris, and in France, that dares to sell only New World wines.  You can choose from among 250 wines that have been carefully selected and represent such countries as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina, Chili, and the United States.  If you’re not sure what to buy, the staff is very helpful and offers free wine tastings on Saturday.  The wines are also very reasonably priced, with a large selection of bottles for less than 10 euros.  I picked up a bottle of Kanonkop Kadette 2006 (South Africa) that I can’t wait to open.

Comptoir des Andes & du Nouveau Monde 19, rue Delambre 75014 Paris

 

November 2, 2009

Roasted Pumpkin Bisque with Garam Masala

Roasted Pumpkin Bisque

A couple of weeks ago, I was given a wonderful gift – a big pumpkin that was slightly lopsided, but beautiful nonetheless.  It came from my friend’s garden in the heart of the French countryside, and, as soon as I saw it, I knew that it would make a delicious pumpkin soup…especially with the approaching cold weather.

Around the time that I was given the pumpkin, I also found a little Asian store in the outskirts of Blois.  The store is rather hidden and is located in the seedy part of town, but I was thrilled to find it since the Asian sections of most French supermarkets are lacking to say the least (and very expensive).  I bought a bag of garam masala (a basic blend of Indian spices) and a can of coconut milk.  So there I was, standing in the kitchen with a pumpkin, a bag of garam masala, and a can of coconut milk…oh, and a left-over bottle of rum.

I began by roasting the pumpkin in the oven with olive oil, and ended up with a delightful bisque that was hearty and creamy with a nice balance of sweet and salty.  The caramelized onions and rum add complexity to the flavor, and the coconut milk adds cream without being too rich.

The creamy French bisques that are pureed until smooth and cooked with cognac or wine inspired this recipe.  “Bisque” is thought to come from the word Biscay, as in the Bay of Biscay that runs along the western coast of France.  It is also possible, however, that it comes from the word Bis Cuites, meaning “twice cooked.”   Since most traditional bisques are seafood based either explanation would work.  The western coast of France is filled with fresh seafood that is first sautéed in their shells before being simmered and pureed.  This bisque, however, is not traditional.  It is vegetable based and, thanks to the coconut milk, completely vegan.  Instead of cognac or wine I used rum, and the garam masala gives it an exotic Indian taste…perfect for a chilly autumn evening.

Ingredients
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 tablespoon natural cane sugar
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 yellow potato, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 apple, peeled, cored, and chopped
3 ½ cups roasted pumpkin puree*
2 cups water (more or less depending on the desired consistency)
1 ½ cups coconut milk
2 tablespoon garam masala
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon cumin
sea salt to taste

1. In a large pot, sauté the onion with the olive oil and cane sugar over medium heat.  Once the onion begins to brown, reduce the heat and add the rum and garlic.  Sauté for a minute longer.

2. Add the chopped potato, carrot, and apple, and sauté with the onion mixture for about 5 minutes.  Add the pumpkin puree and water.  Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.

3. In a saucepan mix ½ cup coconut milk with the garam masala, cinnamon, and cumin.  Cook over low heat for 1 minute.  Add the remaining cup of coconut milk.

4. Add the spiced coconut milk mixture to the vegetable mixture and allow to simmer for another 45 minutes.  With a blender or hand mixer, puree the bisque until smooth.  Season with salt.

5. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil.

*To make the roasted pumpkin puree: Wash the pumpkin, cut into forths, and remove the seeds.  Lather the inside with olive oil, place on a baking sheet, and cover with foil.  Bake in a pre-heated oven (400 degrees F) for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until soft.